The many ways travel can benefit destinations in West Africa

Being a West Africa aficionado and responsible tourism campaigner, I talk within this blog post  about my thoughts on how travelling to a country such as Sierra Leone can help change the countries' image for the better, can allow for the traveller to have amazing experiences, and can go a long way to helping local communities develop a sustainable income. I have recently helped organise an expedition, in Sierra Leone, for Secret Compass to that effect.

Western perceptions of African countries are shaped by the media focus on the events that take place within its borders. Let’s take the example of Sierra Leone which was ravaged by civil war for 11 years from 1991 to 2002. The stories of atrocity and bloodshed were given high coverage by the western media.

In 2006 Hollywood highlighted the plight of the people in Sierra Leone by making the film Blood Diamond. This told the story of diamonds mined in African war zones, sold to finance the civil war and in turn profiting the warlords and global diamond companies. With such high media coverage the image and reputation of Sierra Leone as a war-torn, dangerous country has stuck. Now ten years after the civil war has ended Sierra Leone wants to change that image for good, in order to show the world that the country is a totally different place today. It is safe, the people are friendly, and it is still untouched by mass tourism.

Does this look like a scene from Blood Diamond?

What better way to change peoples’ perspective about a destination than by letting them see for themselves how the country is now, and they will go back home, tell their friends and share their experiences.

This is what I did. Having travelled to West Africa on several occasions, and having lived in Senegal, I had an idea of some of the misconceptions that people have of West Africa, and especially of countries that had experienced conflict, famine and drought.

The western media has, for many years, portrayed many of West Africa’s nations as dangerous, oil spilling, disease ridden, dictator ruled, underdeveloped countries; but the truth couldn’t be further from this. I can’t deny that some parts of West Africa are less safe than others, but there are so many exciting places to discover, inspiring people to meet, and life-changing experiences to have.

In my recent trip to Sierra Leone (locally known as Salone), I travelled across country from the Ocean to the ‘Provinces’ – the Hinterland of the country – to learn more about the backwaters of such a misunderstood part of the world.

My first experience was the western Peninsula are region found just under Freetown. A place of natural beauty, lined with pristine white and yellow beaches, gradually fading into virgin rainforest covering mysterious hills cloaked in mist, inspiring many a legend told by the locals.

"A place of natural beauty, lined with pristine white and yellow beaches, gradually fading into virgin rainforest covering mysterious hills cloaked in mist..."

I don’t want to sound clichéd, but I felt like I was in paradise! I had walked along the vast stretch of beaches from community to community, trying to get a feel of the area. The local communities’ hospitality was overwhelming. One moment I had a freshly opened coconut in my hand, and the next a cup full of sweet Poyo, or Palm Wine, freshly tapped from this special type of palm tree. As the locals put it, the fermenting nectar is “a gift, from god to man!”. I could’ve stayed there for the whole time, but the promises of adventure in the rainforest were calling!

So I jumped on an Okada (a motorbike taxi) to the next major city of Waterloo, negotiated for a space on a rickety minibus and took-off on a 6 hour trip along a “surprisingly smooth motorway” (recently funded by an Italian mining company) to the second largest city of Sierra Leone, Bo: ‘Gateway to the Gola Forest’.

I had heard of some amazing places to visit in the Gola Forest located in the Lower Guinea Rainforest belt. Once the notorious stronghold for the rebels during the Civil war, it is now a stable part of Sierra Leone where small mud hut villages are separated by meandering jungle paths criss- crossed by streams. Not to mention the mighty Moa River running through the region!

The mighty Moa River, with Tiwai Island in the background

During my brief stint in the region of Bo, visiting a village called Potoru and the Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary, I managed to gain a clear insight into the regions potential for organising expeditions, ‘off-the-beaten-track’,  so as to explore the region more in depth.

I had never seen such a concentration of wildlife in one place! Primates, birds and insects; all competing to be the centre of attention. I had also heard of there being cobras and green mambas, as well as crocodiles, hippos and the elusive, rare and endemic pygmy hippo.

I had conversations with local fishermen about the relationship that the people living along the Moa River have with the animals. Talks of crocodiles saving fishermen from drowning, and hippos warning them of impending danger was one of the topics covered; villagers speaking to monkeys through special calls passed down from generation to generation was another. However, I did meet a local guide who had had a close encounter with a crocodile and had the scars to tell the tale.

I remember talking to villagers around an open fire about spirits, secret societies and magic. There is still the local fascination with the ‘Kamajor’, traditional hunters who claim that they have supernatural powers thanks to the ‘gri-gris’ or talismans they wear. It is said that they can shape-shift into animals and inanimate natural objects and remain concealed until the opportune moment.

This is definitely not a place for the faint-hearted, but would appeal to those with a sense of adventure, a thirst for excitement and knowledge, and those searching for unforgettable and awe-inspiring experiences.

The most important is the journey, and not the destination...

Sierra Leone is still somewhat of an unexplored part of the world for travellers, but holds an undeniable potential for the development of expeditions, adventure activities and exciting cultural encounters. Slowly but surely however, tour companies and hotel developers are creeping in to tap into the natural beauty and relaxed vibes that Salone’s coast radiates, and if not managed properly, the local communities are at risk from losing what could be their ticket to a sustainable economic development through tourism whilst holding true to their ways of life and unique laid back attitudes.

Taking this into consideration, I will be going back at the end of November to explore the coastal and rainforest covered regions of Salone more in depth, as well as to visit many local communities. I will be conducting a recce for an expedition run by Secret Compass that I helped organise, and I’m hoping to look into other possibilities that could hold the key to helping local communities develop an income through tourism that respects the social and environmental elements of the destination through the implementation and development of the responsible tourism concept.

Sierra Leone and its people deserve more than being known as a nation in turmoil. The country’s people are positive, the times are changing for the better, and so should peoples’ perspectives towards some of the most beautiful yet misunderstood parts of the World. Exploring a country such as Salone can help develop more of a respect and understanding towards the country, its culture, its environment and its people. So, what are you waiting for?

Thomas is the founder and CEO of West Africa Discovery, a web portal aiming to raise awareness towards West Africa as a travel destination, as well as promoting responsible tourism ventures that aim to make destinations “better places to live in, and better places to visit”. Visit www.westafricadiscovery.com, or join a growing community of people passionate about West Africa on Facebook or Twitter.

Adventure travel in West Africa - Part 2: Ghana

In our second instalment of West Africa’s best adventure travel destinations, we explore Ghana, a Land of sunshine and reputed for the friendliness of its people. Rich in history, and home to the Ashanti Kingdom, a once prosperous and powerful dynasty, this country is a great place to start of in Africa due to its ‘user-friendliness’ and offers a great deal of opportunities for the demanding traveller looking for the next best beach, the most succulent dish, the intense cultural encounter, or the fast paced adventure activity.

Ghana is on the Gulf of Guinea, the ‘under-belly’ of West Africa, facing south towards the Atlantic Ocean.In terms of geography, the country presents flat plains, low hills and a few rivers. The coastline is mostly a low, sandy shore backed by plains intersected by several rivers and streams while the northern part of the country features high hills and rolling plains. Southwest and south central Ghana is made up of a forested plateau region consisting of the Ashanti uplands and the Kwahu Plateau and the hilly Akuapim-Togo ranges are found along the country's eastern border. Ghana's highest point is Mount Afadjato which is 885 m (2,904 ft) and is found in the Akwapim-Togo Ranges.

For all of those who are in to medium intensity adventure travel or if you are looking for activities that are not solely for making your muscles sore, but are willing to combine it will other activities that will soothe your soul, this is the place to come. Hiking, mountain biking, surfing, whale watching, not to mention the overwhelming smells, bright colours, and entrancing music are some of the awe-inspiring experiences you can have in Ghana.

Why not go on a mountain biking excursion through a rural setting, stopping off at mud-hut dotted villages for a rest or to sample the local Jollof rice dish (tomato-flavoured rice to which meat or fish is added) for lunch? Or how about a more intense experience trekking up Mount Afadjato where you can spend the night in a homestay and enjoy a relaxing evening of music and good food (I’ve heard of this place where you can eat village grown mushrooms in a spicy tomato sauce with rice. Vegetarians, eat your... artichoke heart out).

For more information on how you can find yourself in these experiences, click here.

If you are looking for something different, look no further than the only tree-top canopy walk in Africa located in Kakum National Park, home to over three-hundred species of birds, unique monkeys and the highly endangered forest elephant and bongo antelope. The rope bridge suspended 100-110 feet off the forest floor yields an extraordinary sweep of nature from what feels like just below cloud level, a must-see if you’re not afraid of heights.

Down by the Ocean, there are plenty more opportunities for adventure. Ghanaians are natural ocean goers, maybe due to their culture of fishing, and this is reflected in the activities that are on offer. There is the possibility to rent a fishing boat in order to spend a whole day catching your lunch for the evening and learning the different traditional techniques that the locals use to sustain their livelihoods. You might even catch a glimpse of a whale poking its tail fins out of the water! Or if you prefer a more relaxing experience, there are plenty of opportunities to take a traditional canoe up one of the many tributaries and try your hand at fresh water fishing.

A great accommodation idea that offers these activities can be found here.

Ghana’s coast also offers some of the best waves in West Africa (you know where I am going with this), and therefore surfing and body-boarding are also on the ‘adventure menu’ for you to try and practice.

Busua beach, in the west, is one of the best locations for surfing in Ghana and is a wonderful mix of a traditional Ghanaian coastal village and a tourist destination, allowing you to get to know the people and culture of Ghana, meanwhile providing you with many entertainment options in a very relaxed atmosphere. Beginners and veterans alike are welcome to try their hands at the different sized swell found along the Busua stretch of coast.

To find out more about the surfing opportunities, click here.

Of course, as always when visiting a West African country, there is a richness of culture, history and biodiversity to discover, but you would need a life-time to make your way around the amazing things to see and do. The West Africa Discovery web portal has selected a variety of tours, accommodations and volunteer projects that not only give you the opportunity to experience West Africa to its full potential but also make sure that the tourism projects listed have policies that provide benefits to local communities in the area and that, through their activities, make sure that negative impacts on the local heritage are minimised.

For more information, email us at info@westafricadiscovery.co.uk or join us on facebook & twitter to keep up-to-date with our progress, and that of the West African sustainable tourism industry.

Adventure travel in West Africa – Part 1: Senegal

Adventure travel has to be the most invigorating form of travel out there, combining the thrills of physical exercise and adrenaline rushes with the beauty of local scenery and the immersion in the destination. We all know of Australia as an adventure destination with the many possibilities to stimulate those rushes of adrenaline such as bungee jumping or skydiving, or Chile for its white water rafting and trekking possibilities, but what do we know about West Africa as an adventure destination? Not much I suspect. That is why I decided to explore, bycountry over a four part series’, the opportunities for a good old escapade in a few of the 16 countries of this little known part of the World.

For those of you who are in to exploration, you may well have heard of Scottish born Mungo Park who made it his life mission to go where no man had gone before on the African continent. He concentrated his efforts on the West African countries of Senegal, The Gambia and Mali, and was said to be the first Westerner to encounter the Niger River and set up residence in the fabled city of Timbuktu. Well, following in his footsteps, I am going to concentrate on a more modern timeline and will attempt to give you a breakdown of ‘adventure travel’ opportunities and cover the possibilities for the development of activities which reflect the adventure ethos and aim to cause less damage to the environment they operate in.

Let’s start in Senegal which is a diverse country in many ways. It has a variety of ethnicities and a climate that changes dramatically from North to South. This country has been nicknamed ‘Le pays de la Teranga’ (Teranga, in Wolof, can be approximately translated as ‘The art of hospitality’) due to the overwhelming thoughtfulness of its inhabitants and their willingness to share, even though most have nothing. The coast in the West, stretching 531km (330mi), is our starting point for our ‘adventure discovery’.

An Atlantic coastline means waves, and waves mean body-boarding or surfing! In the capital, Dakar, there are several surf camps that make it possible to ride on the longest swell window in the World. Not only do these camps provide you with expert knowledge of the areas surf spots, but they also aim to give employment to local people by training them in hospitality and surf instruction. They also boost the local economy by bringing tourists to the destination and encouraging them to live ‘local’. Check out this surf camp near the Island of N’Gor for an example of what you can expect.

If you fancy taking a break from the Ocean breeze and prefer discovering the hinterland of Senegal, bike tours are possible on which it is possible to stay in homestays and immerse yourself in the local life whilst appreciating the awe-inspiring, baobab dotted, landscapes. Visits to the Lac Rose (the pink lake) or the Lac de Guièr near the Sénégalo-Mauritanian border are a great way to discover the rural culture on Northern Senegal and appreciate the beauties of the semi-arid Sahel region. For more information contact us.

Moving down south to the Siné-Saloum, dotted with mangroves and small tropical-like islands, there are possibilities to go powerchuting to discover the splendours of scenery where land intertwines with the Ocean, or take a pirogue (traditional fishing boat) with a guide to go fishing in the maze of waterways which a variety of birds, butterflies and monkeys call their home. Obviously, you will need a place to rest, and there is no lack of accommodation in idyllic spots to recover from the day’s thrills and spills. Many an eco-lodge are available for your needs to be pampered, and other budget accommodation is also available (enquire with us to learn more). So why not kick back and relax in a traditional hammock with a glass (or bucket) of palm wine and listen to the sounds of nature. You might even catch sight of a mischievous monkey or two.

Moving to the complete opposite on the map, we find ourselves in the South-East of the country, also nicknamed Bassari Country after the mysterious tribe of the same name linked to the Dogon people in Mali. Here, lies the Senegalo-Guinean border dominated by the Fouta Djallon, a granite and sandstone formation with the highest elevation of 1,515m dominated by tropical-like forests and home to the headwaters of three major rivers, the Niger River, the Gambia River and the Senegal River. This is an ideal place to get your hiking boots out and take on a medium-hard trek up to the highest point, Mount Loura. Along the way you will encounter a number of species of monkeys including green colobus and patas, and even chimps are known to dwell in the depths of the jungle. At the foot of the Fouta Djallon, on the Senegal side, lies the sleepy eco-village of Dindéfélo which you could call your base, and is the location of one of the only two waterfalls in Senegal.

If you fancy a bit of exploration, you can retrace your steps to the Gambian border and cross over to some of the least visited parts of that region where you can find some hidden eco-lodges which have purposely been built for those in need of a getaway from mass tourism. To the South is Casamance, one of the most beautiful parts of Senegal but least touristy due to the lack of marketing and the occasional news about rebel activity. However, I have been there and take it from me, there is nothing to worry about, in fact it is probably the best place I have visited in my life.

When in Casamance there are plenty of adventure activities to partake in, although less organised. From mangrove exploration in canoes, scuba diving or snorkelling on the coast, beach hiking or mountain biking, there are plenty of options for those open enough to approach the locals for a bit of advice.

There are many other activities that can be found in Senegal to quench your thirst for adventure; however I would probably need another thousand words to describe the entirety of the possibilities, but needless to say that if the adventure travel industry was developed to a higher level, whilst taking into consideration the local communities and local heritage of course, then Senegal’s relief and different climates could open a number of doors for those seeking new locations and new alternative ways of getting that all important adrenaline rush.

Imagine kite surfing near the South’s deserted beaches or paragliding from the Fouta Djallon plateau, canoeing down the whole length of the Gambia River or hot air ballooning over the sand dunes in the North. Only imagination is the limit!

But until then, why not visit the West Africa Discovery website for more information on unique and exciting holiday ideas that will tickle your explorer glands or provide you with your next hit of adrenaline. Alternatively, email our dedicated team of West African Manatees who will be delighted to help you!