The many ways travel can benefit destinations in West Africa

Being a West Africa aficionado and responsible tourism campaigner, I talk within this blog post  about my thoughts on how travelling to a country such as Sierra Leone can help change the countries' image for the better, can allow for the traveller to have amazing experiences, and can go a long way to helping local communities develop a sustainable income. I have recently helped organise an expedition, in Sierra Leone, for Secret Compass to that effect.

Western perceptions of African countries are shaped by the media focus on the events that take place within its borders. Let’s take the example of Sierra Leone which was ravaged by civil war for 11 years from 1991 to 2002. The stories of atrocity and bloodshed were given high coverage by the western media.

In 2006 Hollywood highlighted the plight of the people in Sierra Leone by making the film Blood Diamond. This told the story of diamonds mined in African war zones, sold to finance the civil war and in turn profiting the warlords and global diamond companies. With such high media coverage the image and reputation of Sierra Leone as a war-torn, dangerous country has stuck. Now ten years after the civil war has ended Sierra Leone wants to change that image for good, in order to show the world that the country is a totally different place today. It is safe, the people are friendly, and it is still untouched by mass tourism.

Does this look like a scene from Blood Diamond?

What better way to change peoples’ perspective about a destination than by letting them see for themselves how the country is now, and they will go back home, tell their friends and share their experiences.

This is what I did. Having travelled to West Africa on several occasions, and having lived in Senegal, I had an idea of some of the misconceptions that people have of West Africa, and especially of countries that had experienced conflict, famine and drought.

The western media has, for many years, portrayed many of West Africa’s nations as dangerous, oil spilling, disease ridden, dictator ruled, underdeveloped countries; but the truth couldn’t be further from this. I can’t deny that some parts of West Africa are less safe than others, but there are so many exciting places to discover, inspiring people to meet, and life-changing experiences to have.

In my recent trip to Sierra Leone (locally known as Salone), I travelled across country from the Ocean to the ‘Provinces’ – the Hinterland of the country – to learn more about the backwaters of such a misunderstood part of the world.

My first experience was the western Peninsula are region found just under Freetown. A place of natural beauty, lined with pristine white and yellow beaches, gradually fading into virgin rainforest covering mysterious hills cloaked in mist, inspiring many a legend told by the locals.

"A place of natural beauty, lined with pristine white and yellow beaches, gradually fading into virgin rainforest covering mysterious hills cloaked in mist..."

I don’t want to sound clichéd, but I felt like I was in paradise! I had walked along the vast stretch of beaches from community to community, trying to get a feel of the area. The local communities’ hospitality was overwhelming. One moment I had a freshly opened coconut in my hand, and the next a cup full of sweet Poyo, or Palm Wine, freshly tapped from this special type of palm tree. As the locals put it, the fermenting nectar is “a gift, from god to man!”. I could’ve stayed there for the whole time, but the promises of adventure in the rainforest were calling!

So I jumped on an Okada (a motorbike taxi) to the next major city of Waterloo, negotiated for a space on a rickety minibus and took-off on a 6 hour trip along a “surprisingly smooth motorway” (recently funded by an Italian mining company) to the second largest city of Sierra Leone, Bo: ‘Gateway to the Gola Forest’.

I had heard of some amazing places to visit in the Gola Forest located in the Lower Guinea Rainforest belt. Once the notorious stronghold for the rebels during the Civil war, it is now a stable part of Sierra Leone where small mud hut villages are separated by meandering jungle paths criss- crossed by streams. Not to mention the mighty Moa River running through the region!

The mighty Moa River, with Tiwai Island in the background

During my brief stint in the region of Bo, visiting a village called Potoru and the Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary, I managed to gain a clear insight into the regions potential for organising expeditions, ‘off-the-beaten-track’,  so as to explore the region more in depth.

I had never seen such a concentration of wildlife in one place! Primates, birds and insects; all competing to be the centre of attention. I had also heard of there being cobras and green mambas, as well as crocodiles, hippos and the elusive, rare and endemic pygmy hippo.

I had conversations with local fishermen about the relationship that the people living along the Moa River have with the animals. Talks of crocodiles saving fishermen from drowning, and hippos warning them of impending danger was one of the topics covered; villagers speaking to monkeys through special calls passed down from generation to generation was another. However, I did meet a local guide who had had a close encounter with a crocodile and had the scars to tell the tale.

I remember talking to villagers around an open fire about spirits, secret societies and magic. There is still the local fascination with the ‘Kamajor’, traditional hunters who claim that they have supernatural powers thanks to the ‘gri-gris’ or talismans they wear. It is said that they can shape-shift into animals and inanimate natural objects and remain concealed until the opportune moment.

This is definitely not a place for the faint-hearted, but would appeal to those with a sense of adventure, a thirst for excitement and knowledge, and those searching for unforgettable and awe-inspiring experiences.

The most important is the journey, and not the destination...

Sierra Leone is still somewhat of an unexplored part of the world for travellers, but holds an undeniable potential for the development of expeditions, adventure activities and exciting cultural encounters. Slowly but surely however, tour companies and hotel developers are creeping in to tap into the natural beauty and relaxed vibes that Salone’s coast radiates, and if not managed properly, the local communities are at risk from losing what could be their ticket to a sustainable economic development through tourism whilst holding true to their ways of life and unique laid back attitudes.

Taking this into consideration, I will be going back at the end of November to explore the coastal and rainforest covered regions of Salone more in depth, as well as to visit many local communities. I will be conducting a recce for an expedition run by Secret Compass that I helped organise, and I’m hoping to look into other possibilities that could hold the key to helping local communities develop an income through tourism that respects the social and environmental elements of the destination through the implementation and development of the responsible tourism concept.

Sierra Leone and its people deserve more than being known as a nation in turmoil. The country’s people are positive, the times are changing for the better, and so should peoples’ perspectives towards some of the most beautiful yet misunderstood parts of the World. Exploring a country such as Salone can help develop more of a respect and understanding towards the country, its culture, its environment and its people. So, what are you waiting for?

Thomas is the founder and CEO of West Africa Discovery, a web portal aiming to raise awareness towards West Africa as a travel destination, as well as promoting responsible tourism ventures that aim to make destinations “better places to live in, and better places to visit”. Visit www.westafricadiscovery.com, or join a growing community of people passionate about West Africa on Facebook or Twitter.

Responsible Tourism is here to Stay!

I woke up one morning, in a tent, to the sound of birds chirping. Adapting to my surroundings, I slowly became conscious of where I was. I opened the tent door, stepped outside and thought: “Wow! This is why I am here”. I was on Tiwai Island, a place of significant biodiversity, located on the Moa River, in the middle of the Gola Rainforest, in Eastern Sierra Leone. I had decided to visit the island on my trip of research and discovery in a country renowned for a brutal civil war and child soldiers. Those images couldn’t be further from the truth.I was travelling by local transport from tourism project to tourism project, assessing the level of responsible tourism principles that had been implemented within the current activities, or failing that, the potential for implementing responsible tourism ethics within already established tourism ventures.

You can read more about this journey of discovery here, but I think that responsible tourism needs explaining first.

So, what is responsible tourism? It can be summed up with this quote from Prof. Harold Goodwin, founder of the International Centre of Responsible Tourism, on the occasion of the drafting of the Cape Town Declaration (2002) on responsible tourism in destinations: “Responsible tourism aims to make destinations better places to live in, and better places to visit”.

Responsible tourism also aims to:

• Increase the benefits that tourism can have on a destination whilst making sure to reduce the negative impacts associated with mass tourism.

• Offer authentic and unique experiences to the tourist, whilst taking into account the social, economic and environmental elements of a destination.

• Highlight the fact that local communities are hosts, not tourist attractions; and that the environment is an important element of the overall experience rather than being a playground for the planet's privileged.

• Make common sense the principal driver for change; and that disrespect and injustice, the colonial perspective, must become obsolete. “Treat people the way you want to be treated” is the ethic behind the idea.

This type of tourism, this movement, this ‘new’ (not so new in the grand scheme of things) way of thinking is growing. The idea that tourism can be used as a tool for poverty alleviation, for peace, for the understanding of new cultures (whether from a hosts perspective or that of the visitor) is slowly taking over the ‘mass tourism’, only for profit, generic model.

Responsible tourism may be considered a niche by critics, a ‘fad’ that will fade with time, but it is far from it. Responsible tourism guiding principles can be applied to all forms of tourism that cater for all age-groups, all markets, in all destinations. It is here to stay!

To learn more about responsibility and responsible tourism, here are a few resources:

Responsibility.org.uk

Responsible Tourism Forum

West Africa Discovery - Responsible Tourism Policies

The International Centre for Responsible Tourism (ICRT)

Or for more information contact me at thomas@westafricadiscovery.co.uk or follow me on twitter or Facebook.

Responsible Travel in Sierra Leone - Part 3: Coconut & Poyo Paradise

Part 3 of my trip to Sierra Leone follows on from 'Responsible Travel in Sierra Leone - Part 2 - The Provinces: Waterloo to Bo & Beyond' which you can read here.

Back to Waterloo, I was feeling much more comfortable with my surroundings. I bought a fresh coconut from 2 children who had a barrel full and which they opened with a machete, and walked to the taxi park near the market to which I had already been to before. I grabbed the first taxi to Tombo, the biggest fishing village on the peninsula, and immediately jumped on the back of an 'Okada' direction Bureh Beach of which I had heard a lot of good things.

Bureh Beach

My mission this time was to visit as many communities along the peninsula as I could whilst walking the length of the beach. So, I walked through Bureh Town down to the beach. There I met a few local guys who called themselves 'Beach Boys' and who looked after the accommodation. The day had been long, so I decided to stay for the night. The sun was still up, there were some waves on which the locals were surfing, so naturally I grabbed a body-board and joined in the fun.

Maroon Island at Sunset

After dinner, with which I had the most amazing groundnut soup, I chatted to my new found friends and was then invited to their house to listen to some music and drink 'Poyo' (palm wine), which I readily accepted. Walking through the community, I could see myself living in a place like this: sitting around candlelit courtyards, sipping on palm wine whilst discussing the latest news. A slow pace of life which made me feel privileged to have been given the opportunity to experience it.

Bureh Beach & Maroon Island

That night I went for a walk on the moonlit beach. The waves were gently lapping against the shore and the outline of the tall and bent palm trees were distinct against the pure star filled sky. The shape of Maroon Island, so called because the first 'Maroons' (runaway slaves) landed there in the 1700's, was apparent in the distance. This idyllic scene seemed like a dream, probably emphasized by the Poyo, and I had to pinch myself a couple of times to make sure that it was indeed reality. This set the scene for my 2 day 'beach walk'.

Palm Tree Point - Bureh Beach

Waving Goodbye to my hosts

The next morning, I waved goodbye to my hosts and crossed a river - one of many flowing down from the forest covered mountain range into the Ocean - before heading off at a slow pace towards the next community. Along the way, I laid my backpack down and went for a swim in the translucent water. Feeling refreshed, I continued along my way following the magnificent coastline that stretched as far as the eye could see. After about an hour's walking, I reached the John Obey community (see part 1) where I said hello to the friends I had made and to check on the progress of the second earth bag dome, before I moved on to my next destination: Tokeh.

John Obey Community hauling the fishing boats onto the beach

I had heard that Tokeh was a fine producer of Poyo, so I decided to inquire as to who was the best Palm Wine seller in Town. I was told to ask for Katy at the bus station, and a little girl was ordered to show me the way. We walked through alleys bordered by mud walls covered in raffia and arrived in a small courtyard where men were drinking palm wine. When they saw me, they made me feel at home straight away and gave me a jar of Poyo to start off. I stayed there for about an hour and learnt a lot about Tokeh and the surrounding area. Finally, before departing, as I was going to meet a friend at my next destination, I bought a gallon of Poyo for the road and set off towards the beach.

Friends made at Katy's Place in Tokeh

There I met some fishermen who offered to take me to some 'twin' islands which I had noticed in the distance, for a nominal fee of course. I decided to accept the offer and jumped into the dugout canoe along with my bag. I had not realised how unstable the boat was and thought we were going to capsize a few times. Finally we arrived on the islands and my guide waited at the boat for me. I could see that a storm was coming, so I quickly walked around the island and got back to the canoe just in case. I felt like I was on a treasure Island, and who knows, maybe I was.

The 'Twin Islands' in the distance

Looking back from the Islands with my guide, Mohammed

On the way back to mainland

When I reached the beach, I grabbed my bag, paid my guide, and then went on my way along the beach towards River #2, singing a song to myself about Palm Wine drinking Pirates.

River #2 is a pioneer in community based tourism. The guest houses available to day trippers or seasonal domestic tourists are owned by the community, and each member of the community contributes to the project. The activities, accommodation, food, reception, transport, are all provided by the community, and therefore the money goes back to the community itself. It seems to work well and is well organised.

River #2 Lagoon

After a grueling walk of about an hour and half, I reached the last river I needed to cross before I reached my destination. Just as I got there, a canoe pulled up carrying others across. The timing was perfect. When I stepped off the boat, I was greeted by Ishmael, Daniel's (my friend) little cousin, who had been expecting me. He guided me to my beach hut, where I would be staying the night. I then had a well-deserved swim.

My accommodation at River #2

I was then brought a bowl of rice and fish covered in a very spicy ‘hot pepper sauce’ as well as two freshly picked coconuts. This was going to be my last dinner before I left paradise so I appreciated every mouthful of ‘chop’ and every sip of fresh coconut milk whilst staring at the clear horizon whilst the sun was setting. The coconut milk was probably the best I had ever tasted.

That night, my hosts decided to build a bonfire around which we sat to talk about their stories and my experiences in Sierra Leone. I was told many stories about the civil war which I will not recount here because I feel they are too graphic to share within this blog, but I must say that I realised how awful the whole situation was. You can see a film like ‘blood diamond’ a million times, but will never get even close to understanding what the local communities went through until you hear the stories from the mouths of those who were on the ‘front line’.

We talked well in to the night, the moon shining down onto the Ocean gently caressing the golden sands of River #2.

River #2 Community Based Tourism project

The next morning I awoke to the resident cockerel pecking away at the half coconuts left over from the night before. I opened my tent’s door to a blazing sun and went straight to the sea for an early morning swim. The fire’s remains were still smoking. Daniel brought breakfast and we drank our coffee speaking about the days plan. I was to meet up with my contacts at the National Tourism Board so that they could show me more of the peninsula and the potential that it has for the development of responsible tourism.

After having had a refreshing bucket shower, and having packed up my rucksack, we walked to the top of the dirt road and hailed down a heavy duty truck on which we jumped and rode back to Tokeh where we were to meet Umaru Woody and his colleagues of the National Tourism Board.

To be continued… ‘The great potential for responsible tourism in Sierra Leone’

Responsible tourism can be practiced in a variety of ways as long as it benefits the local communities in which you spend time, whilst respecting the local heritage. One of the ways to do so is to meet with the local communities, share stories, accept invitations, be curious but respectful, be friendly and humble, and make sure that the money you spend is shared amongst the most people possible. You can buy local drinks (like Poyo), participate in activities organised by the local communities, stay in local accommodation and make sure you know where the money goes, how it is shared. By doing so, you will get to know the people with whom you stay, the places you visit more intimately and have an overall more authentic and satisfying experience.

To discover more of the authentic experiences you can have in West Africa, don’t hesitate to visit www.westafricadiscovery.co.uk or join a growing community passionate about Travel in West Africa on Facebook.

Responsible Travel in Sierra Leone - Peninsula, Provinces and Palm Wine (Part 2)

Following on from the first installment of his adventure, Thomas recounts his experiences on his journey through Sierra Leone to discover tourism projects which work towards implementing the responsible tourism concept of "making destinations better places to live in, and better places to visit"

Part 2: The provinces - Waterloo to Bo & Beyond

My next mission was to visit another community tourism project based around an Island of outstanding natural beauty and rich in biodiversity found on the Moa River, and on the fringes of the Gola Forest in the South-East of Sierra Leone. Tiwai Island is owned by 8 communities who live around it, and, in theory, they all benefit equally from tourism. I am planning on basing my MSc Responsible Tourism Management dissertation on how this can be done successfully.

To reach Tiwai, I was to take a 'Poda Poda' (local mini-bus) from Waterloo to Bo, then travel from Bo to Potoru from where I was told to catch an 'Okada' (motorbike taxi) to Kambama where you can take a speedboat to reach the Island.

One of the villages dotting the side of the highway

The journey from Waterloo to Bo went without any incidents. We stopped a few times to pick people up or drop them off and this gave me the opportunity to learn a bit more about the differences between the coast and the hinterland. At every stop, tradesmen/women would come to the vehicles windows selling plantain crisps, 'Benny Cake' (sesame seed and sugar), grilled meat, bananas, oranges, corn, water, etc... you could never go hungry. The road was perfect. No pot-holes anywhere. I later learnt that an Italian prospecting company had invested in tarmacking the road which has now made a big difference between a day-long journey and a 3-4 hour journey.

The image which says: "West Africa" to me.

Arriving at Bo, I noticed a lot of social campaigns which were going on. Billboards denouncing domestic violence, encouraging family planning, addressing the AIDS/HIV issue, promoting agriculture and community, and many more. It was also my first reminder that there had been a civil war not so long ago. Billboards promoting the 'Guns for Development' campaign where an NGO was buying guns off people (very successful), 'Social Integration' and 'Peace Development' were common words around the city, even Diamond re-sellers were called 'Peace & Love'. Bo and the Provinces were the hardest hit by the civil war and where the worst atrocities were committed.

Example of social development billboards (terriblyfabulous.wordpress.com)

From Bo to Potoru - a ‘junction town’ leading to several villages, one of which was my destination - the road was less favorable. The rainy season was just ending, so heavy rain showers were common place. Pot-holes and mega-puddles dotted the road, and our driver - who's name is William 'Bobo' Decker - expertly guided the 'Poda Poda' without even breaking a sweat. Orange vendors and Plantain Crisp sellers were everywhere. The smell of 'the bush' is something you never forget. The sweet scent of tropical flowers mixed with the damp earth smell, the odour of oranges and limes; this coupled with the landscape of lush green vegetation, small streams meandering across the dirt road, the bridges crossing over fast flowing mighty rivers; time seems to go slowly yet you don't see it fly by.

Road to Potoru. Notice the storm in the distance.

Potoru, which I later learnt was a rebel stronghold during the 1992 to 2002 war, was a quiet village which had a certain vibe about it. People were very friendly, respectful and eager to please. It was noticeably a trading hub too, being at the junction linking several villages together. We briefly stopped before we headed direction Kambama. Bobo Decker kindly offered to take me all the way as he had noticed that a tropical storm was brewing in the distance and knew that I would've gotten soaked if I had taken an 'Okada' (motorbike taxi).

The road was still dirt but was much better than the Bo to Potoru route. This was partly due to the small amount of vehicles that rode this way. We could see the storm approaching. Like a grey blanket, it covered the landscape, engulfed the forest, roads and villages. I thanked Bobo, as you can imagine. Finally, we arrived at Kambama. It was dusk and the distance rumble of thunder reminded us that we didn't have much time before another storm would unleash its wrath. I was guided down a path, from the village to the river bank and got on a speedboat captained by Ibrahim who told us a story about how crocodiles in the river and villagers had a mutual respect for each other.

Tiwai Island

Local guide from Kambama leading me into the jungle

When we set foot on the island, I felt like an explorer. This was the real jungle! Creepers were hanging from the forest canopy, the sound of insects was overwhelming, birds were nesting above us. We started walking towards the camp where I would stay the night, and suddenly I heard something moving in the branches above me. I looked up and saw a black and white blur. A double take revealed that it was a monkey, a Diana monkey to be more precise. Ibrahim said: "This is a good start, you have already been very lucky!" and he was right.

Can anyone identify this spider?

Red Colobus Monkey

The next morning, after a beautiful night's sleep, I went with a local guide on a 3 hour jungle trek where I saw a group of Red Colobus Monkeys, Black & White Colobus', Diana Monkeys, Suti Mangabe's, Hornbills, 'big-as-your-hand' spiders building their webs which shone golden-greenish hues when reflecting the sun’s rays, and the cream of the crop: 2 duikers; a very rare sighting according to my guide. Unfortunately, but not surprisingly, we did not come across the elusive pygmy hippo. Maybe next time.

Solar power at Tiwai. Tent hut in the distance.

Traditional building where the food was prepared

During my stay, I also took a canoe onto the Moa River and learnt about traditional fishing techniques, wildlife, plants and pygmy hippo habits, as well as how to call monkeys by pinching your nose, mouth and emitting a cry so that they come to you thinking that you are a baby monkey in distress. The local language is Mende (from the Mende tribe) of which I learnt how to say:

'Hi Man/Old Man/Young Woman/Children' = 'Dake/Keke/Niande/Dupui Boaa'

'How are you?' = 'Ka hui ye na?'

'I am fine' = ' Ka ing goma'

The next morning, I took the speedboat at 4am in the morning to catch the local transport back from mainland. I will never forget speeding up the River Moa lit only by moonlight. That was definitely an experience.

In the next installment, Part 3: Back to the Peninsula - Coconut & Poyo Paradise, Thomas visits the communities located on the Western Peninsula to discover the tourism projects already put in place and the potential for implementing the responsible tourism concept.

To learn more about Responsible Tourism in West Africa, you can either visit the West Africa Discovery web portal, or join the growing community of West Africa passionate people here.

Travels in Sierra Leone: Peninsula, Provinces and Palm Wine #1

After coming back from Sierra Leone, and having had one of the most amazing times of my life, I decided to share my experience with others to hopefully inspire more people to go and explore this beautiful yet misunderstood part of the World. This is the first part of Travels in Sierra Leone: Peninsula, Provinces and Palm Wine.

When I first mentioned that I wanted to travel to Sierra Leone, I would have been a rich man if I was paid for every time someone either said: "Isn't there a civil war in Sierra Leone?" or "It's dangerous in Sierra Leone, are you crazy?". My answer to them was: "Sierra Leone has been at peace for 11 years" or "You're crazy for not going!". The misconceptions of Sierra Leone's current state are still rife, partly because of the 2006 film Blood Diamond, which wasn't even filmed in SL, and the lack of people willing to go there themselves to bring back true stories about a country struggling to change their image and grow in a positive way. Needless to say that I wanted to be one of those people: a bringer of news from a land which deserves to be viewed as a beacon for hope and World historical heritage rather than for a brutal civil war built around greed and deception.

I arrived at Lungi airport at 9:30pm. The first thing that you experience is the difference in climate (if you had come from the Northern Hemisphere). I went through passport check. No problems there. Collected my bags quick sharp. Outside was the usual bunch of porters, taxi drivers and name card brandishing guys. I was then directed to the Water Taxi ticket office -Lungi airport is on a different peninsula to Freetown, and to get to the other you need to either take a Water Taxi, Ferry, Speedboat or Helicopter. In not time, I was speeding towards Freetown. When we approached the Aberdeen port, I got a small insight into what to expect from Salone, little electricity, candle light, humidity, a slow pace of life and a community feel. I disembarked and changed my money (current rate: $1 = 4500 Leones) with a guy called Solomon, just in time for my ride to arrive to take me to my first destination, John Obey beach.

Part 1: John Obey - Community-exchange & Sustainable Living Tourism Project

When I arrived, I was greeted with a big plate of chop (food in Krio) and a Star beer (national beer of Sierra Leone) by Kat, a volunteer overseeing the project. We got along straight away and then I was introduced to the night security guards, Momo and Mister Alou Sene who is also the village Imam. I was shown to my accommodation and after debating about the differences and similarities of Islam and Christianity (SL is 50/50 and there are no conflicts) until 4am, I called it a night.

Mister Alou Sene & Momo, the security guards

The next morning, I awoke to the sound of waves crashing and birds twittering. I slowly rose from my mosquito net covered 'four-poster' bed and opened the door to my beach shack to discover Sierra Leone in the daytime. It was beautiful! Just outside my accommodation was a lagoon which rose and fell with the Ocean tide, multicoloured butterflies flew gracefully between the palm trees, a gentle breeze carried the smell of jasmine around the shack. Welcome to Sierra Leone!

The lagoon at low tide

My beach shack for 3 nights

After breakfast I was shown around the project. Solar tower, recycling area, compost toilets, earth bag 'honeydomes', permaculture garden, bucket showers, all the signs of a sustainable development project that works. The project also employs 30 people from the local community, 10 of them were working on a new structure using the skills they had learnt over the past year to build earth bag domes as accommodation for guests. I was told that this was the main project, so I lent a hand on the 'building site'. By the afternoon, after lunch, the structure was nearly finished. I was given the honor of laying the last earth bag on the top which we then celebrated by playing drums and singing. Such a good feeling!

From left to right: Solar tower, recycling center and compost toilets

Happy faces after the earth dome was completed

For the next couple of days at Tribewanted, I learnt how to cook 'special sauce', practiced yoga, went to visit the local school, cooked an amazing 'lime and spice mackerel wrapped in banana leaves and baked in the mud oven' dish, swam every morning and every night at sunset, went baby croc spotting, drank palm wine, visited the market at Waterloo, experienced tropical thunderstorms, visited the improvised turtle sanctuary on the beach, listened to local legends around the hot stove, learnt about the local communities' aspirations and positive ambitions. As you can imagine, it was hard to leave, but my feet were itching to walk other paths and discover more of hidden Salone (Sierra Leone).

John Obey School photo...

A John Obey sunset...

To be continued... next time: Part 2: The provinces - Waterloo to Bo & Beyond

To learn more about my project, visit www.westafricadiscovery.co.uk or join us on Facebook.

Tips on How to be a Responsible Tourist (in West Africa ) by Sandy Asuming

Sandy Asuming, a student from the Gambia, shares with us her passion for the development of the responsible tourism concept in West Africa by explaining how the tourists themselves can help implement very simple changes in behaviour which can have major impacts on the sustainability of destinations and the local communities living there.

Responsible tourism is about tourists making environmentally friendly, sustainable, ethical and respectful choices when travelling and minimising the negative impact of tourism. Being responsible is something all tourists needs to take into consideration when making a decision on travelling to a destination.

Responsible travel can be considered as the most enjoyable way to travel because it brings you closer to local people and culture, it gives you the chance to experience the authenticity of the destination. It shares some of the benefits of tourism more widely with local communities, and helps minimised some of the negative impacts tourism might often have. No matter the type of travel you’re involved in, tourism brings both positive and negative impacts to a destination but responsible travel and tourism maximises the benefits of tourism and reduces some of the negatives.

The majority of us travel to experience new cultures, take on new challenges, experience new activities, or even to discover ourselves. Travelling gives us the opportunity to take a break from our typical daily routines and to reflect on the importance of life. But yet almost all travellers show an abject ignorance of anything other than a westernised world view. Being a responsible tourist can make a big difference by supporting the type of tourism that is not harmful to the environment and is supportive of local communities who lead the effort to gain or maintain sustainable livelihoods.

Contact between tourists and local people may result in mutual appreciation, therefore tourists need to be aware of local customs, traditions and to show respect to the host community in question. Residents will then be open minded and will be more willing to be educated about the outside world without leaving their homes, while their visitors significantly learn about a distinctive culture. Local communities are benefited through contribution by tourism to the improvement of the social infrastructure like schools, libraries, health care institutions, internet cafes, and so on. If local culture is the basis for attracting tourists to the region, it is important to preserve the local traditions and handicrafts.

If tourists’ attitudes change and they allow themselves to become responsible travellers, the host communities will benefit from this by protecting endangered wildlife, as the importance of preserving and conserving this resource will become more apparent. Many of West Africa’s countries depend on their wildlife as tourist attractions and if it’s not protected, there will be a decline of tourist numbers and as a result will have a bad effect on the economy. For example every year around 23000 tourists visit the Bijilo forest park in the Gambia and because the park is close to Banjul which is the capital city, it is easy for tourists to commute from the park to the town. However, the number of incoming visitors tends to be high which causes overcrowding. This causes damage to local wildlife especially the green monkeys which no longer find the need to look for food but instead sit beside nearby road sides and wait for tourists to feed them. In addition, tourists purchase bags of peanuts for the animals and litter the grounds with the empty bags. This is a danger for the monkeys who attempt to ingest them. Also, by over feeding these monkeys, they become over-friendly and become susceptible to theft by poachers.

Bearing this in mind, it is advisable for tourists to be educated on the effect of their ignorance. In doing so, tourists will become responsible for their actions while enjoying the experience.

At the end of the day by protecting and enhancing favourite destinations, future enjoyment for visitors and local resident will be sustained.

Another point is that tourists need to recognise that water and energy are precious resources which need to be used carefully. It’s important to buy from the local stores, use local taxis, local tour guides etc. All these little transactions help the local community. In the Gambia, for example, there is an excellent selection of good quality restaurants, therefore by eating in local restaurants you are ensuring that your visit benefits the wider community.

Applying the WCED’s definition of sustainability¹ to tourism, as coined in Bruntland’ Commission, the reason for responsible travel to be practised is “to meet the needs and aspirations of the present without compromising the ability to meet the need and aspiration of future generations.” The core issue is conserving resources. There is a need to balance social, economic and environmental impacts for both tourists and host communities.

To learn more about projects that work towards implementing responsible tourism principles in the Gambia, you can view out selection here.

You can also learn more about travelling in and around West Africa by joining our growing community of 1000+ people passionate about West Africa and its beautiful local heritage.

¹ World Commission on Environment and Development (1987). Our Common Future. Oxford: Oxford University Press.

How Tourism can Benefit Destinations: The Gambia - by Sandra Asuming

At West Africa Discovery we are always looking for stories, photos, videos and articles as to how tourism can benefit local communities in destinations. The following contribution has been put forward by Sandra Asuming who spent some time in The Gambia discovering how, if sustainably and responsibly managed, tourism can have positive effects for underdeveloped countries.

Travelling to Gambia for the first time was odd as I didn't know what to expect, if am being honest, Gambia as a tourist destination was something I never considered when planning a holiday until I entered Leeds metropolitan university in 2008.

Studying international tourism management meant I would have the opportunity travel. The first trip on this course was to the Gambia and the main purpose was to explore the country, as well as discovering the benefit of tourism to one of the poorest country in the world. As a tourism student I have leant that tourism is an important sector in the economy, as it provides employment opportunities for local residents, earns valuable foreign exchange for the host destination, it can help improve social lifestyles. Tourism has been accepted as a tool for development in developing countries such as the Gambia. The industry generates a lot of employment opportunities especially for the youth in Gambia. Through tourism around 26000 people are employed either directly or indirectly. The employment figures are for full-time jobs or part-time job equivalents in the case of persons. These jobs include tour guides, beach vendors and souvenir traders. Tourism in the Gambia is thus essential to the economy and to the people. The end benefit of this is income earned by parents which goes towards their children education and the betterment of their living conditions.

My experience in the Gambia was extra-ordinary as I witness the importance of international tourism; their export earner is a big factor in the balance of payments of the Gambia. The global foreign currency receipts overtake the exports of oil products, motor vehicles, telecommunications equipment, textiles or any other product or service. Tourism jobs and businesses can be created in the most underdeveloped regions of Gambia by providing an incentive for residents to remain in rural areas rather than moving to overcrowded cities. Travel and tourism stimulate enormous investment in new infrastructure, most of which helps to improve the living conditions of local residents as well as tourists in Gambia. Tourism development projects often include airports, roads, marinas, sewage systems, and water treatment plants, restoration of cultural monuments, museums and nature interpretation centres. The tourism industry provides governments with extra tax revenues each year through accommodation and restaurant taxes, airport taxes, sales taxes, park entrance fees, employee income tax and many other fiscal matters. The Gambia has established itself as a tourism destination which caters for people who want to exchange cold weather for sunny sandy beach and sunshine. Therefore travelling to Gambia also has a benefit for individual needs and desires.

The Gambia is a peaceful and stable destination which offers the best climate in the world all year and has amazing landscapes. The country is known as the smiling coast of Africa. This makes the Gambians warm and friendly people with a contagious relaxed attitude to life. A visit to Gambia will give you the chance to interact with local people, try local cuisines, and visit historical site and most of all relaxing on the beach. During my week in the Gambia I visited a lot of interesting places such the craft market, there the local men and women craft interesting art to take as a souvenir to take back home. Serekunda market was one place worth visiting; the place has items one would not think existed. A Gambia holiday excursion consists of bird watching, boat rides on the Gambia River, a tour of the national park to see the monkey sanctuary, eco-tourism for those of you who are interested in the conservation and preservation of unique areas of Gambia.

I thoroughly enjoy my time in the Gambia and there is plenty more to explore there. It is definitely a ‘must-go-and-see’ for everyone. It is important to travel to this country as it helps increase the awareness of tourism and increase revenue to the economy and improves local lifestyles.

For more information on responsible tourism, sustainable travel opportunities in West Africa or just to get in touch, you can visit our web portal at www.westafricadiscovery.co.uk, or connect through facebook or twitter.